Leon Stolarski Fine Wines Provence White Wine

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Chateau d'Estoublon

As a merchant specialising in the wines of southern France, I tend to get numerous emails every week from some or other grower or their agent, looking to gain a foothold in the UK wine market. Time (or a distinct lack of it) dictates that I reply to only a small percentage of these emails – usually dependent on whether I am one of hundreds of recipients of a bulk email, or the target of an altogether more selective campaign. And although the majority of the growers on our current list are there because I found them, a few are there because they found me.

One such grower is Chateau d’Estoublon, a long-established estate, situated on the southern slopes of the Alpilles, which was purchased in 1999 by the Schneider family (of Breitling watches fame). The family immediately set about restoring the imposing 18th Century Chateau and the surrounding vineyards and olive groves, whilst their young winemaker Remy Reboul (under the tutelage of the legendary Eloi Durrbach of Domaine de Trévallon) set about making the wines. Some replanting was also carried out – mature Grenache and Syrah vines were already there, together with Grenache Blanc for the white wine. But unfashionable workhorse varieties such as Counoise, Cinsault and Ugni Blanc were replaced with more noble varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Marsanne and Roussanne, which came into production with the 2002 vintage.

The red wines are based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, with the main Chateau red also containing 20% Cabernet Sauvignon (the maximum permitted for the Les Baux de Provence appellation). Despite the Cabernet in the blend, these reds are stylistically quite similar to Chateauneuf-du-Pape – and bloody good Chateauneuf, at that! Just one white is made, being a blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc. Because Marsanne and Roussanne are not permitted varieties for the AOC, this wine bears the label "Vin de Pays des Alpilles". But make no mistake, this is brilliant stuff, which stands comparison with the (far more expensive) Trévallon white wine – and indeed, many a top white Chateauneuf or even Hermitage. The wines are certified organic (Ecocert).

Domaine d'Estoublon Blanc 2007 Vin de Pays des Alpilles
Domaine d'Estoublon Blanc 2007 table

Vintage	2007
Region	Provence - Fontvieille, on the southern edge of the Alpilles
Colour/Style	Dry white, full bodied. Aged in oak for 11 months
Grapes	Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.6%
Food	Smoked salmon, shellfish, chicken, cheese
Next day	Still excellent
Drink	Can be drunk now, but will age for 5 to 10 years
The colour is a bright yellow gold. The nose is uber complex - notes of quince, apricot, primrose, spices (fennel and clove spring to mind), with subtle hints of lemon, honey and clarified butter. The oak-ageing is subtle, too, with just a touch of vanillin. And the palate is as fresh as a daisy, with flavours of apricot and peach, quince and lemon zest. There is also honeyed, nutty richness that coats the mouth, whilst at the same time coming across as beautifully dry and focused. Restrained power is the order of the day - the sort that manifests itself in a long, mouth-watering finish. In fact, this is a wine that seems effortlessly to combine richness of flavour with supreme elegance. Which marks it out as a great wine, in my book. White Chateauneuf? White Hermitage? Even white Trévallon? This comes pretty close to them all - it is an absolute star of a wine, from an undoubted future star estate of Provençal winemaking. Buy it. Tasting note by The Wine Gang - April 2010 "A stylish, concentrated Vin de Pays blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, there's a seed-cake nuttiness on the nose, and a very rich minerality on the palate. This is one of those intense wines where bruised orchard fruit plays second fiddle to the complex minerals, flowers and herbal power of the flavours, with huge length and a wonderfully steely presence. 92/100"

Price: £22.99 (Including: VAT at 20%)

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Domaine d'Estoublon Blanc 2008 Vin de Pays des Alpilles
Domaine d'Estoublon Blanc 2008

Vintage	2008
Region	Provence - Fontvieille, on the southern edge of the Alpilles
Colour/Style	Dry white, full bodied. Aged in oak for 11 months
Grapes	Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.4%
Food	Smoked salmon, shellfish, chicken, cheese
Next day	Still excellent
Drink	Can be drunk now, but will age for 5 to 10 years
The colour is a pale-to-medium yellow gold, with orange glints. The nose exhibits notes of quince, apricot, peach and pink grapefruit, along with something almost evocative of red fruits, which is most unusual in a white wine. Further notes of citrus blossom and honeysuckle, soft spices, nuts and clarified butter make for a wine of quite stunning complexity. As with previous vintages, the oak-ageing is beautifully done and really quite subtle, allowing all of those wonderful "winey" aromas to sing. The palate is crammed full of flavour, with a high level of concentration and a rich, mouth-coating oiliness and nuttiness, which is balanced by wonderful orangey acidity and perhaps even a little grape/wood tannin. Once again, restrained power is the order of the day, in a wine which combines richness of flavour with supreme elegance and a gentle, spicy warmth. It is perhaps a tad richer than the 2007, but no less complex or elegant for it. The finish is as long and complex as the start and the middle, with all of those glorious, hedonistic flavours lingering for an age. Another utterly glorious white wine from this rising star of Provence.

Price: £22.99 (Including: VAT at 20%)

Quantity:

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Our list is constantly evolving, so if you would like to receive our occasional e-mail newsletter (around 8 times per year) click the logo >>>>

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Minimum order value, delivery charges, times and restrictions

We deliver only to UK and Northern Ireland addresses. The minimum order value is £75 (plus the delivery charge). You may of course choose a mix of any wines in our range. Orders between £75 and £200: delivery charge is £7.50. Orders over £200: delivery is free! (If your order is over £200, please remember to change the delivery charge in checkout to £0.00). Please note: Delivery to non-mainland addresses (Scottish Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, etc.) is usually possible, but may not be on a next-working-day basis. It is also more expensive than delivery to mainland addresses, so will be charged at cost (for orders under £200) but with a small discount for orders over £200 - please call us for a quote.

Warning - you must be aged 18 or over

It is an offence to purchase or attempt to purchase alcohol if you are under the age of 18. (Section 149 Licensing Act 2003).We reserve the right to seek proof of age. Leon Stolarski says "drink less, but drink better!" Please consume alcohol in moderation.