Bright, shiny gold, with green tinges. The nose is delightfully fresh, fruity and herbaceous, with aromas of exotic fruits and citrus,  complemented by notes of elderflower, pea pods and freshly cut grass. The palate is similarly fresh, fruity, zesty and herbaceous, delicate and fleet of foot, yet with surprising depth (and length) of flavour. It is pure, racy, crisp and refreshing, with really focused acidty and a subtle spiciness on the finish. This really is a cracking little wine, which equates to more than the sum of its parts - which should come as no surprise, since it is made by Pierre Laplace at Chateau d'Aydie, one of the finest and most consistent winemakers in south-west France. Brilliant as an aperitif, yet equally suited to light dishes.

Pacharenc du Vic Bilh is the main white wine in a region probably better know for its red Madiran wines. But if you've never heard of it, don't let that put you off. South-West France still harbours a few relatively unknown, yet high-quality wine appellations, which are capable of producing some really amazing wines - and this is one of them. It is a medium straw/gold coloured wine, with pale green glints. Stone/slate aromas mingle with citrus fruits, pea pod and nettle and very subtle, smoky oak nuances. It is herbaceous and minerally - for those unfamiliar with the local grape varieties, this is sort of half way between Chenin and Sauvignon, but with a style all of its own. Almost bone dry, and the acidity is quite shocking in its intensity - a wine to really make the mouth water! There is a lot going on here, with zesty lime, lemon and tart apple flavours, but with a hint of savoury richness and a backbone of stone/slate minerality. The length is considerable. This is not a wine for the faint-hearted, but for those with a spirit of adventure, this could be just the ticket - far from being "rustic" (I hate that word) this is a mouth-watering, complex, lovely wine, and I highly recommend it.