Leon Stolarski Fine Wines Loire White Wine

Vintage	2006
Region	Loire-Atlantique, 20 km south-east of Nantes
Colour/Style	Dry white - light-to-medium bodied.
Grapes	100% Melon de Bourgogne
Alcohol (a.b.v)	12.0%
Food	All manner of shellfish, fish or even white meats
Next day	As good
Drink	Drinking beautifully now, but will improve for a year or two
Pale gold colour with green glints. Aromas of freshly-cut grass, apple, melon, peach and lime, with notes of wet stone and herbs. The palate offers a complex core of fresh citrus and stone fruit flavours, apples, herbs and spice. The hugely refreshing acidity is countered by great generosity of fruit. Fresh, zesty and fruity with a herby, spicy finish of considerable length. Gold medal, Paris 2007.

Price: £7.50 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine Raimbault-Pineau 2006 - Sancerre
Raimbault-Pineau Sancerre 2005 table

Vintage	2005	Image to follow
Region	Sancerre - Loire Valley, 30 km north of Nevers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium bodied.
Grapes	100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	All manner of seafood, fish or even white meats
Next day	As good
Drink	Drinking well already, but will improve for a year or two
A nose of citrus peel and honey, with notes of ginger/spice, elderflower and a touch of trademark cat's pee(!) A rounded palate of citrus (lemon, lime, even a hint of clementine) honey and melon, all backed up by clean, minerally acidity. Superbly balanced, mouth-watering stuff.

Price: £9.95 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine Raimbault-Pineau Cuvée Lucien 2005 - Sancerre
Domaine Raimbault-Pineau Cuvée Lucien 2005 table

Vintage	2005	Image to follow
Region	Sancerre - Loire Valley, 30 km north of Nevers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium bodied. Aged in oak barrels.
Grapes	100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	All manner of seafood, fish or even white meats
Next day	Still drinking well
Drink	Drinking well already, but will improve for 5 years
Clear bright straw colour, with green tinges. Wonderful aromas of elderflower, cut grass and pea pod, complimented by subtle notes of vanilla, spice and fennel, and just a hint of trademark cat's pee. The palate has a concentration of rich, almost tropical fruit, but a layer of fresh, zingy citrus fruit places you firmly back in the Loire Valley, with a persistent mineral streak that keeps it amazingly fresh. The oak ageing is so masterly that you almost don't notice it - the oak tannins and vanillin are beautifully integrated, adding further depth and a good deal of complexity. And the length goes on forever! This really is a stunning example of how a Loire Sauvignon can be enhanced by the subtle use of oak. Utterly lovely! Only a few cases available (with the 2006 due to be released shortly).

Price: £15.25 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Chateau de Suronde

Chateau de Suronde is a small estate of just 6 hectares, situated in Rochefort sur Loire, in the heart of the Quarts de Chaume region. 5 of those 6 hectares are within the appellation of Quarts de Chaume itself, which actually represents one eighth of the whole appellation (40 hectares in total) . The Chenin Blanc vines planted here are between 15 and 70 years old, with an average age of 40 years. Although not officially certified, the estate is farmed using biodynamic principles - and the quality of the wines is enough to make even the biggest sceptic believe that it makes a difference. The grapes are picked from October to mid-November, with between 2 and 5 different "tries", depending on the vintage conditions and the levels of botrytis in the grapes. Not surprisingly, the yields are miniscule, at just 5 hl/ha for the Quarts de Chaume. In "English money", we are talking just 270 bottles of wine per acre of vines. Or put another way, it takes the fruit of 4 or 5 vines to make just one bottle - now that is what you call artisan winemaking! The Quarts de Chaume is fermented to around 11.5% abv, at which point the fermentation is stopped. The levels of residual sugar are very high, yet the inherent acidity of the Chenin Blanc variety makes for superbly balanced wines, which are given 18 months in old oak barrels before bottling.

The remaining hectare of vines on the property comprise some more Chenin Blanc (which is planted on the lower slopes, outside of the appellation) and Sauvignon Blanc. Two dry wines are made - Anjou Blanc Sec from the Chenin, and a "humble" Vin de Table de France from the Sauvignon Blanc, which does not qualify for any other denomination, when grown in this area of the Loire. But make no mistake, both of these wines are utterly brilliant - weird, wacky, complex, and quite delicious. Again, the grapes are picked late, with the must being fermented to a natural 14.5% abv. Old oak is again used for the Chenin, whilst some new oak (as well as old) is used for the Sauvignon. These are the sort of wines that can make the French Appellation Controlée system look a bit silly - that such brilliant wines can only be labelled as Anjou or the most lowly Vin de Table, it makes you think it is time for a change of the rules.

So don't be fooled. Ignore the fact that the AOC rules consign these dry wines to the file marked "others" and appreciate them for what they really are - wines of the very highest order.

Chateau de Suronde Vin de Table de France
Chateau de Suronde VDT table

Vintage	NV - but made from grapes harvested in 2004
Region	South-west of Angers in the Loire Valley
Colour/Style	Dry white - full bodied.
Grapes	100% Sauvignon Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	14.5%
Food	Shellfish, smoked salmon, fish, rich soft cheeses
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Now, or over the next 5 years
Bright gold/straw colour, with green tinges. The nose has apple, quince, lemon zest and wet stone with a hint of orange marmalade and vanilla. The palate is quite rich and creamy, yet has superb acidity - not so much mouth-watering as eye-watering! There is great clarity of flavour - despite the creamy texture, the acidity dances across the tongue, giving it wonderful definition and minerally depth. There are complex flavours of citrus and stone fruits, with a hint of spiciness and massive length. A world class Sauvignon that dare not speak its name, as it is not a permitted variety for the local AOC - hence the "humble" Vin de Table status. But don't let that fool you - this is another brilliant, wacky wine from one of the region's finest growers.

Price: £14.95 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Chateau de Suronde Anjou Sec 2004
Chateau de Suronde Anjou Sec 2004

Vintage	2000
Region	South-west of Angers -
Colour/Style	Dry white - full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.5%
Food	Hors d'oevres, oysters, seafood, fish or veal in sauce
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Now, or for 10 years plus
Aged in very old oak cuves for 2 to 3 years. Hints of lime zest and orange marmalade, apple and quince, with mineral and flint nuances. Rich, yet with great lemon and lime acidity, minerals and stone fruit flavours. Very contrary, and very lovely.

Price: £15.99 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Chateau de Suronde Quarts de Chaume 2004
Chateau de Suronde Quarts de Chaume 2004

Vintage	2004
Region	Quarts de Chaume - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Sweet white
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	11.5%
Food	Aperitif, foie gras, liver paté, blue cheese, white fruits
Next day	Even better - goes for days if kept in the fridge
Drink	Amazingly good now, but will evolve for decades
Rich, mid-gold colour, with great viscosity. Aromas and flavours of honey, tangerines and apricot. Further layers of flavours develop in the glass, with exotic fruits, toffee and hints of spice, combining lush sweetness with excellent acidity. Quarts de Chaume can be difficult to drink in its youth, but this has less overt minerality and more in the way of intense fruit and nectar flavours, which makes it delicious to drink now. That is not to say that it won't evolve further, though - for years, or even decades. Exquisite biodynamic wine, from one of the region's finest estates.

Price: £31.50 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine des Baumard

Florent Baumard presides over one of the finest estates in the Loire Valley, producing a superb ange of dry (sec) and sweet (moelleux) Chenin Blanc wines. The dry Savennières are amongst the very best in the appellation – steely dry, complex and age-worthy. They are great food wines, ideally suited to hors d’oeuvres, fish, shellfish/seafood and even veal. The sweet wines of Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume are also amongst the very best in the appellation. Some say there are no greater dessert wines produced anywhere in the world – and who are we to argue? They can be drunk with pleasure in their youth, but can age and evolve for as long as you want them to. They are quite delicious on their own, but are also a perfect match for foie gras, liver patés, blue cheeses and white fruits.

These wines will age and improve for many years to come (indeed, the moelleux wines will last for many decades) but there is not one amongst them that cannot be drunk with pleasure right now.

Domaine des Baumard Cuvée les Sables 1998 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Cuvée les Sables 1998 - Savennieres- table

Vintage	1998
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	12.0%
Food	Shellfish, seafood and fish dishes
Next day	As good
Drink	Now, or over the next 2 to 3 years
Pale yellow/gold, with a nose of nettles, undergrowth, wet wool (typical of Savennieres) and an interesting note of ginger. A complex, herbaceous, minerally palate - primary fruit flavours are not what to expect in mature dry Loire Chenins - with a hint of caramel, married to excellent acidity and a very decent length of finish. For lovers of the more austere style, and a perfect match for fish and shellfish.

Price: £9.75 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2001 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2001 - Savennieres - table

Vintage	2001
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium/full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	Oysters, mussels and fish dishes
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Drinking well now, but will keep improving for 10 years
Bright, mid-yellow/gold, a little closed on the nose at the moment, with flavours of quince/apple and a hint of eau de vie. The palate is very much open for business, though, with intense quince and peach flavours to the fore, but also with an interesting vegetal note making for a complex, intriguing and lovely wine.

Price: £11.30 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2002 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2002 - Savennieres - table

Vintage	2002
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium/full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	Oysters, mussels and fish dishes
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Drinking well now, but will last 10 to 20 years
Bright pale yellow/gold, with a floral and citrus nose and complex flavours including quince, peach and pear. Also quite minerally, with bracing acidity and a really excellent length. Although drinking well now, this is another one to age. Lovely wine. 90/100 - Wine Spectator.

Price: £11.75 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2003 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Clos Saint Yves 2003 - Savennieres - table

Vintage	2003
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - medium/full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	Oysters, mussels and fish dishes
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Drinking well now, but will improve for 10 years-plus
Bright pale straw colour. A lovely, fresh, floral nose, with hints of citrus and butter, all carrying through in the mouth, which is quite full-bodied, with mineral flavours and excellent acidity. Already quite developed and fleshy, but will age superbly, too. Bottled under screwcap.

Price: £11.75 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2001 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2001 - Savennieres - table

Vintage	2001
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	Hors d'oevres, oysters, seafood, fish or veal in sauce
Next day	As good or better
Drink	Keep for at least 5 to 10 years
Pale gold colour, with a very aromatic nose of honey, lemon zest and straw. It possesses a rich, yet minerally palate with notes of quince, almond and citrus. A very complex and fine wine, with great balance and ageing potential. 90/100 - Parker. 91/100 - Wine Spectator & Wine Anorak Now only 9 bottles remaining.

Price: £14.50 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2003 - Savennieres
Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon 2003 - Savennieres - table

Vintage	2003
Region	Savennieres - south-west of Angers
Colour/Style	Dry white - full bodied.
Grapes	100% Chenin Blanc
Alcohol (a.b.v)	13.0%
Food	Hors d'oevres, oysters, seafood, fish or veal in sauce
Next day	As good or better