Leon Stolarski Fine Wines
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Online Wine Shop  >  Wines by grower - alphabetical  >  Domaine de Montesquiou - Jurancon

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Domaine de Montesquiou - Jurançon
Domaine de Montesquiou - Jurançon
We discovered Domaine de Montesquiou on our 2006 trip to south-west France, on the fringes of the Pyrenées, just south of Pau. This is a small, family-run estate, with just 6.5 hectares under vine, and has been handed down from father to son since the 18th century. The current winemakers are brothers Sébastien and Fabrice Bordenave-Montesquieu (Fabrice is pictured left). And if my experience of recent vintages is anything to go by, the future of the estate is in very safe hands - for the wines are fantastic!  Although not (as far as I am aware) certified as such, Sébastien and Fabrice employ many of the principles of biological and biodynamic viticulture. Detailed attention is paid to the working of the ground and the influence of the moon. To fight against pests and diseases, they only use products containing copper, sulphur and clay, together with homeopathic quantities of "herb tea" preparations popular amongst biodynamicists. Insecticides and herbicides are a definite no-no.

Canopy management is also crucial. The vines are trained high (to approximately 2.4m), with the aim of maximising the leaf area, whilst also ensuring good circulation of air and minimising the opportunity for pests and diseases to take hold. The result is healthy grapes with both high sugar content and maximum phenolic ripeness - i.e. perfect balance. All work in the vineyard, including of course the grape harvest, is entirely manual. It goes without saying that the wine-making process itself is as non-interventionist as possible - healthy grapes make healthy wine!  I should also mention the labels. Quite apart from being things of real beauty, the subject matter depicting a ladybird on a vine tendril and two silhouetted figures enjoying a glass of wine next to a barrel (also cunningly evoking a crescent moon) make a strong statement about biodynamic principles and respect for the land. Everything about this estate is central to our philosophy of offering top-quality wines from small independent growers, whose passion for the vine is translated into wines of impeccable quality and breeding.

The grape varieties planted at Domaine de Montesquiou are Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Courbu - all indigenous to this corner of south-west France. The dry wines (
Jurançon Sec) are based primarily on Gros Manseng and are fresh and zingy, with lemon, lime and apple flavours and great mineral depth. The sweet wines (simply Jurançon) are full of luscious sweet fruit, balanced by the remarkable acidity offered by the Manseng varieties. Indeed, the Grappe d'Or (comprising 100% Petit Manseng) is quite simply stunning - see below for my tasting note. Jurançon may just be France's best-kept wine secret - and this particular estate may just be our greatest discovery yet. Give them a try - I promise you will not be disappointed!

Domaine de Montesquiou La Rosée de Montesquiou 2008 Jurancon Sec
Domaine de Montesquiou La Rosée 2008 table
Vintage
2008
Region Jurançon - south-west of Pau, in deepest SW France
Colour/Style Dry white, aged on its lees (in vat - no oak) for 6 months
Grapes 50% Gros Manseng, 10% Petit Manseng, 40% Courbu
Alcohol (a.b.v)
13.0%
Food Salads, fish, shellfish, chicken, or as an aperitif
Next day
Almost as good, but best consumed as fresh as possible
Drink Now, or over the next 2 to 3 years

Not a rosé (rosée is French for "dew") but an ultra-pale straw/gold coloured wine, with green glints. This 2008 vintage has everything that the 2006 and 2007 had, but is even better - which is some achievement! A riot of lemon, lime, apple and pineapple aromas and flavours, shot through with steely/slatey minerality. There are some interesting herby, herbaceous and spicy notes, too. And that classic, mouth-watering Jurançon acidity carries all the way through to a long finish. This really is a complex, classy and truly delicious expression of its terroir. If you appreciate delicate, nervy whites – light and fresh on the palate, yet with tremendous depth and complexity - then you will you will appreciate this wine. Furthermore, whilst it is wonderful to drink on its own, it will also provide a superb match for all manner of foods. Steamed salmon or other fish dishes, seafood platter, lemon-infused chicken or a mixed salad with (say) chicken livers all spring to mind. We had it with a sweet and sour pork and vegetable stir-fry and it was a match made in heaven. Just a gorgeous wine to drink now, but there is certainly no rush. If we had to recommend just one dry white wine from our list, then this would be it.

 

Price:  £9.75 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvade Préciouse 2007 Jurancon Sec
Domaine de Montesquiou Cuvade Preciouse 2007 table
Vintage
2007
Region Jurançon - south-west of Pau, in deepest SW France
Colour/Style Dry white, aged in oak barrels for 11 months
Grapes 70% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng
Alcohol (a.b.v)
13.0%
Food Hors d'oevres, smoked salmon, seafood, goat's cheese
Next day
Even better - lasts a good day or two in the fridge
Drink Now, or over the next 3 to 5 years

This 2007 vintage is somewhat different from the 2006, in that the oak influence is more restrained and integrated and makes for more of a creamy, honeyed quality than the toasty oak vanillin of the 2006. And I have to say that - much as I love the 2006 - this is all the more pure and representative of its appellation. All of that wonderfully intense, lemon and mineral Jurançon terrroir is on show here - in fact, it is almost like a bone dry version of the sweet Grappe d'Or from the same grower. A pure, bright gold colour with hints of green, this is another serious wine, with lemon and apple aromas, mingled with a touch of vanilla, clove, star anise and freshly-baked bread. Again, the palate offers the hallmark Jurançon flavours of lemon, lime and apple, yet with considerable richness and minerality. A fabulous, thrilling wine, full of restrained power and breeding. It will evolve nicely over the next few years, but is already drinking beautifully. This is made in very small quantities, so availability is limited.

 

Price:  £11.99 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine de Montesquiou Amistat 2007 Jurancon
Domaine de Montesquiou Amistat 2007 table
Vintage
2007

Region Jurançon - south-west of Pau, in deepest SW France
Colour/Style Sweet white, aged in oak barrels for 12 months
Grapes 100% Gros Manseng
Alcohol (a.b.v)
13.0%
Food Goat's cheese, foie gras, fruit salad, or as an aperitif
Next day
As good - lasts a good few days in the fridge
Drink Now, or over the next 5 to 10 years

Bright, clear mid-gold colour. Much the same as the Grappe d''Or below is a sweet counterpart to the dry Cuvade Préciouse, so this wine is a sweet version of the dry La Rosée de Montesquiou, with similar aromas of lemon, lime, pineapple and freshly-cut grass. It also has similar floral notes and plenty of that classic Jurancon minerality. The palate is less intensely sweet and complex than the Grappe d'Or, but with similarly intense fruity, minerally flavours, notably lemon, lime and crunchy apple, with hints of root ginger and herbs. And, as ever, that wonderfully mouthwatering acidity. Yet another lovely, lovely wine from this amazingly consistent and brilliant grower. Limited availability.

 

Price:  £11.50 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

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Domaine de Montesquiou Grappe d'Or 2007 Jurancon
Domaine de Montesquiou Grappe d'Or 2007 table
Vintage
2006
Region Jurançon - south-west of Pau, in deepest SW France
Colour/Style Sweet white, aged in oak barrels for 12 months
Grapes 100% Petit Manseng
Alcohol (a.b.v)
13.0%
Food Blue cheese, foie gras, smoked salmon, tarte tatin, lemon layer or Sussex pond pudding, or simply as an aperitif
Next day
Indestructable - lasts for weeks in the fridge
Drink Now, or over the next 10 to 20 years

What can I say about this wine that I haven't said before in my notes for previous vintages? The 2005 and 2006 were good, but this 2007 vintage is every bit as good as - perhaps even better than - the truly outstanding 2004. Pure gold in colour, this is made from 100% Petit Manseng, harvested in late November and early December, when the grapes are dehydrated and the flavours concentrated. And I think I even detect a hint of botrytis in this one, which adds even more complexity to a wine which possesses that quality in droves. There are rich, complex, heady aromas of creme brulée, honey, toffee apple, lime marmalade, root ginger and allspice. And the combination on the palate of the dense, viscous, sweet fruit and the almost shocking acidity makes for a wine of incredible contrast - almost ethereal and other-worldly. And although the concept of drinking the whole bottle on its own is almost irresistable, it is also a perfect match for foie gras and patés, all manner of cheeses and, of course, lemon or apple-based desserts. A Sussex Pond Pudding springs to mind. All I can say is wow - what a wine! Having tasted many of the world's great sweet wines from Sauternes, Loire, Mosel and Austria (not to mention Hungary, Australia, South Africa) I can honestly say that this one excites my taste buds like no other. The sweetness of fruit, married to that amazing acidity makes for something utterly memorable – far more than the sum of its parts, and a definite contender for my "desert island wine". And at less than 15 quid a bottle, it is undoubtedly one of (if not the) world's great sweet wine bargains. The word "stunning" is over-used in wine parlance, but it is hard to find a better word to describe this one - it really has that "wow factor". A wonderful sweet wine, which is worth twice the asking price.

 

Price:  £15.99 (Including: VAT at 17.5%)

Quantity:


Mailing list
Our list is constantly evolving, so if you would like to receive our occasional e-mail newsletter (around 8 times per year) click the logo >>>>


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Minimum order value, delivery charges and times
The minimum order value is £50 (plus the delivery charge). You may of course choose a mix of any wines in our range. Orders between £50 and £175: delivery charge is £6. Orders over £175: delivery is free! (If your order is over £175, please remember to change the delivery charge in checkout to £0.00). Please note: Delivery to non-mainland addresses (Scottish Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, Isle of Man, Isle of Wight, etc.) is usually possible, but may not be on a next-working-day basis. It is also more expensive than delivery to mainland addresses, so will be charged at cost (for orders under £175) but with a small discount for orders over £175 - please call us for a quote.

Warning - you must be aged 18 or over
It is an offence to purchase or attempt to purchase alcohol if you are under the age of 18. (Section 149 Licensing Act 2003). We reserve the right to seek proof of age. Leon Stolarski says "drink less, but drink better!" Please consume alcohol in moderation.